Escentric Molecules - MOLECULE 02 FRAGRANCE 100ML
Notes
The Molecule 02 fragrance is radically minimalist. It contains no odorants except the aroma-molecule, AMBROXAN™.
-Noten
Der Duft Molecule 02 ist radikal minimalistisch. Er enthält keine Geruchsstoffe außer dem Aromamolekül AMBROXAN™.
Molecule 02 consists of the molecule Ambroxan pure
and singular.
Ambroxan has a subtle sensual quality with a radiant,
long-lasting drydown.
It is a crystal with a chemical structure identical to
the ambrox derived from ambergris. For centuries ambergris
was perhaps the most prized ingredient in perfumery. It is
a somewhat mysterious substance expelled by the cachalot or
sperm whale that only attains its fine scent after a long
maturation floating in the ocean. Ambergris is rarely found
these days, and the 'amber' in a modern fragrance will be a
lab-created equivalent of some of the aroma-molecules that
make up its scent. By far the finest of these is the nature-
identical molecule, Ambroxan.
Ambergris was always valued for its refinement as well as its
sensuality. This quality persists in Ambroxan. "It has a fresh,
almost mineral quality," says perfumer Geza Schoen, "that lingers
into the drydown".
Ambroxan was isolated from plant sources in 1950.
***
Molekül 02 besteht aus dem Molekül Ambroxan in seiner Reinheit
und Einzigartigkeit.
Ambroxan hat eine subtile sinnliche Qualität mit einem strahlenden,
lang anhaltenden Drydown.
Es ist ein Kristall mit einer chemischen Struktur, die identisch ist
mit der des Ambrox aus Ambra. Jahrhundertelang war Ambra die vielleicht
wertvollste Zutat in der Parfümerie. Es handelt sich um eine etwas mysteriöse
Substanz, die vom Pottwal ausgestoßen wird und erst nach einer langen Reifung
im Meer ihren feinen Duft entfaltet. Heutzutage ist Ambra nur noch selten zu
finden, und der "Ambra" in einem modernen Parfüm ist ein im Labor hergestelltes
Äquivalent einiger der Aromamoleküle, die seinen Duft ausmachen. Das bei
weitem beste dieser Moleküle ist das naturidentische Ambroxan.
Ambra wurde schon immer für seine Raffinesse und seine Sinnlichkeit
geschätzt. Diese Qualität bleibt in Ambroxan erhalten. "Es hat eine
frische, fast mineralische Qualität", sagt Parfümeur Geza Schoen,
"die bis in den Abgang hinein anhält".
Ambroxan wurde 1950 aus pflanzlichen Quellen isoliert.
Escentric_Molecules
Escentric Molecules owes its existence to an aroma-molecule that does not exist in nature. Iso E Super was created in a laboratory at IFF in 1973. It remained unknown outside the world of perfumery until the launch of Escentric Molecules, though its elusive presence hovers at relatively low concentrations in the background of many fragrances for both men and women. Among perfumers, it is prized for its velvety, cocooning effect.
When perfumer Geza Schoen first smelt Iso E Super in isolation, something clicked. “I realised that the common denominator in all the fragrances I liked was that they contained a large dose of it. Iso E Super is highly unusual. You can never get enough of it. One sniff and you want the whole bottle. It’s like a drug.”
Schoen began to experiment, creating fragrances that contained Iso E Super in unheard-of proportions. One night he went further. Heading out for a drink with a friend, he suggested they spritz on nothing but the aroma-molecule itself.
The effect was immediate. No sooner had they sat down at a bar, than a woman came up to ask about their fragrance. As Schoen talked with her, it became clear that the connection between the fragrances she liked was also a large dose of Iso E Super. Schoen realised he was on to something.
His proposal was bold. He would create two fragrances in homage to this enigmatic attractant. One fragrance would contain an unprecedented 65% of the molecule. The rest of the formula would consist of ingredients designed to underscore its low-lit mood.
If this was a radical move, the second fragrance was totally non-conformist. It would contain only the molecule Iso E Super. “I thought, this one will appeal only to the artists, the freaks, the outsiders.”
He was wrong. From its launch in 2006, Escentric Molecules was a phenomenon. Schoen followed the first pair of fragrances, 01, with 02, 03, and in 2017, a fourth pair, Escentric Molecules 04. Each pair focuses on those rare aroma-molecules that have the radiance and depth of character to stand alone.
